POETIC PUGLIA

Written By: Lauren Cunningham

Far, far away in a white-washed land filled with florals and daring dimensions, Dolce & Gabbana gave us the treat of fabulous fashion through its Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria collections, where the dresses were just as delightful as the backdrop, and Sorbet has all the secrets.

THE LOCATION

“Puglia is Dolce & Gabbana, Dolce & Gabbana is Puglia”, said the luxury Italian House founders, bringing the brand back to its roots in southern Europe. Nestled within the Itria Valley, Alberobello, better known as the ‘town of the Trulli’, served as the backdrop of the beautiful collection. Turning white-washed walls and cone-topped houses into a set better than any synthetic scenery, models swanned through winding streets displaying their wares adjacent to the wine and food shops before moving onto Ostuni. Known as the ‘Città Bianca’ aka the ‘White City’, this second location is just as stunning as the first, continuing the color theme while adding noble coats of arms, statues, and a scenic square that only enhanced the daring designs of the Dolce & Gabbana collection. “We fell in love with the men and women of this region because they continue to hand down centuries-old culture and traditions that are deeply rooted in the Apulian territory,” shared Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, linking the House traditions with those of this standout set.

THE GUEST LIST

From Future wearing an all-white suit to Helen Millen looking ravishing in red, the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda show had more A-listers in attendance than most award shows. Recent brand collaborator Kim Kardashian donned a daring purple gown, giving glimpses of our favorite Quality Street, while Emily in Paris’ Lucien Laviscount revealed a bare chest underneath a romantic lace. Kerry Washington, Venus Williams, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Rosie Huntingdon-Whitely (to name but a few) were also in attendance, showcasing the wide range of industries the 500-person guest list spanned.

BACKSTAGE

Without the home comforts of an indoor set – makeup mirrors, steamers, lighting, and big bathrooms – backstage was built out of tent-like structures, sitting in between houses and their stone roofs. While the usual hustle-and-bustle of backstage life continued, the backdrop was sure to soothe the anxious souls of makeup artists, hair stylists, dressers, and models, and heart-shaped structures hung off of hangers for good luck too – even if they were propped up onto tent poles.

THE COLLECTION

Taking inspiration from both the backdrop’s buildings and people, Dolce & Gabbana created a collection that was both mythical and methodical. Woven wooden structures stood out as daring dress designs paired with modern knee-high black boots. Scenic paintings of the house structures sat on skirts, and whimsical lace dresses felt both dainty and dynamic, drawing attention to corset-like cuts and thick black shorts sitting in contrast underneath. Using both the clothing and the human bodies that could be seen underneath them, the House played with proportions, movement, and the magic of clothing while reminding us of their core focus: to sit on top of our skin. Keeping mainly to neutral colors, a sea of cream, black, nude, and white wares sauntered through the streets, split up by focal pieces in bold shades of blue, red or adorned with three-dimensional flowers.

THE ACCESSORIES

The bigger, the better was clearly Dolce & Gabbana’s motto and accessories played a big role. Following the focus of the cone-shaped roofs, larger-than-life conical hats sat atop many a model’s head in black and white, bringing the focus back to the sky. Standing in contrast to the OTT headpieces, the House played with more traditional types, tying a simple black scarf across the scalp while picking up on the poetic nature of the region’s residents with basket bags filled with flowers and food. In terms of jewelry, most wrists were left bare, and a simple locket landed on many a chest, glistening in gold under the sun.

THE INSPIRATION

Influenced by the pearly white city of Ostuni, where the Alta Sartoria show also took place, the collection was informed by the enchanting white labyrinth it become engulfed within. Lost in the city’s maze, silk suits and crochet sets moved among courtyards, charming squares, narrow staircases, and winding alleys that lead to nowhere. At its center, a magnificent cathedral and the main street, Via Cattedrale, which ascends to the hill’s peak where majestic views of ancient olive trees and the sparkling Adriatic Sea can be soaked up. Serving as both an inspiration and a backdrop, the white-washed city — punctuated with occasional warm tones of beige, brown, and yellow — offered an idyllic muse.

THE ROMANTIC MAN

Countless crochet, sun-kissed silk, lace gowns, and bridal white for boys, the Alta Sartoria collection was a sentimental tribute to Italian tradition and culture. Made entirely by hand, from a fusion of techniques and craftsmanship, each piece paid homage to artisans while narrating the cherished stories of years gone by. Intertwining crochet was reminiscent of heirloom tablecloths passed down generations; Grottaglie ceramics (originally from Ostuni) were incorporated into several shields and bodices; and items from the Corredo (a bridal kit of linens, nightgowns, and bed sheets, collected by mothers for their children) were acquired and repurposed for the collection. According to Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the romantic man is adorned in milk white, sandy hues, and soft beige, wearing the drapes of Magna Graecia and Nonna’s linen napkins.