Written By: Khansaa Houlbi
Mary Katrantzou, Bvlgari’s Bags and Accessories Creative Director, explains how she turned a 1970s Roman silhouette into an everyday work of art.
Bvlgari has always understood how to use its past without getting stuck in it. From the enduring Serpenti lines to the Roman coins embedded in Monete, the house regularly dips into its historical vault to deliver designs for today. That same conversation between old and new shapes its leather goods, an area led by Mary Katrantzou.
Rather than looking at handbags simply as functional pieces, Katrantzou approaches them as wearable art, infusing them with Bvlgari’s jewelry-making heritage while keeping product design and everyday functionality front and center. The latest focus of that approach is the Melone, an archival clutch originally launched in the 1970s. Inspired by the rounded, ribbed silhouette of a melon, the piece challenged what an evening bag could look like when it first debuted.
For its return, the house updated the silhouette in a pleated, gold-finish aluminum that keeps the bold, spherical shape intact without feeling heavy. The detail work sits right in line with Bvlgari’s jewelry background: a smooth cabochon closure finished with mother-of-pearl opens up to two symmetrical halves lined in soft nappa leather. To keep it versatile, the bag includes interchangeable silk tassels, with a dozen extra color options available for personal styling.
It is a design that relies on strong proportions and clean metalwork rather than heavy branding. Ahead of the launch, we caught up with Mary Katrantzou to learn more about pulling gems from the 1970s archive.
Courtesy of Bvlgari
KHANSAA HOULBI: How did Bvlgari’s archives shape your vision for bringing this piece of history back to life?
MARY KATRANTZOU: The Bvlgari archives are an extraordinary source of inspiration. They reveal how pioneering the Maison’s ideas were in their time and how modern they still feel today. With Melone, I was particularly drawn to the idea of an accessory as a precious object, sitting between an evening clutch, a jewel, and an objet d’art. Its design already feels remarkably contemporary, so I wanted to bring this piece of Bvlgari’s history into the present while preserving its character. Introducing a curated range of interchangeable silk tassels adds color and gives women the freedom to style it in their own way.
Courtesy of Bvlgari
KH: Could you share the story behind this piece and what makes its history so significant?
MK: Melone was originally conceived in the early 1970s and takes its name and distinctive fluted form from the melon, a fruit associated with good fortune, vitality, and abundance. It captures the boldness of Bvlgari’s design during that period, when an evening accessory could be conceived with the imagination and preciousness of a jewel. It also reflects Bvlgari’s enduring dialogue with the cultural richness of ancient Rome. Melone was an important inspiration for our Icons minaudière collection, so revisiting it feels like a natural continuation of that story. For me, its significance lies in that freedom to move between disciplines, which remains central to how I approach accessories today.
Courtesy of Bvlgari
Courtesy of Bvlgari
KH: Bvlgari’s jewelry signatures are clearly present here, particularly the gold work and cabochon accents. How do you translate those traditional jewelry techniques into accessories and leather goods while keeping them recognizable?
MK: For me, it begins with understanding the codes and the craftsmanship behind them. Bvlgari has a distinctive language: generosity in volumes, a celebration of gold, and the sensual curves of the cabochon cut. The challenge is to express those qualities at a different scale and with a different function. In Melone, the sculpted, fluted gold-finish surface and the cabochon closure carry that jewelry language into the design. I want our accessories to feel as considered and precious as a piece of jewelry, while remaining something you can hold, wear, and use.
KH: How does this new design differ from the 1970s original? Which archival elements were non-negotiable to keep, and what modern details did you introduce?
MK: The fluted silhouette was essential to preserve because it gives Melone its identity. We remained faithful to the original proportions and character while adapting the scale, construction, and functionality for today. The new edition is crafted in pleated gold-finish metal and opens into two symmetrical halves lined in nappa leather. The interchangeable silk tassels are offered in black and ivory, with 12 additional colors available to order. Changing the tassel brings a different expression to the piece and allows women to personalize it to suit their look. That versatility shows how much possibility there is within this timeless design.
Courtesy of Bvlgari
Courtesy of Bvlgari
KH: And finally, what is your favorite sorbet flavor?
MK: It used to be lemon, but now, of course, it has to be “melone”!
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