“Cold, isn’t it?” Is there anything more British than a
conversation about the weather? The unpredictable
weather of its isles is as quintessentially British
as a Burberry trench coat. Often an excuse for a
cup of tea, a biscuit, and a good old grumble, us
Brits are bonded by gray skies, light drizzle, and if
we’re lucky, glorious t-shirt weather. Embracing the
unexpected showers that come with the territory,
Daniel Lee’s latest collection for Burberry is inspired
by the outdoors. “For Winter 2024, I wanted this
collection to feel warm and protective,” said Lee, with
an abundance of coats, sturdy boots, and checked
umbrellas ready to brave the storm.
Influenced by muddy hills, choppy coastlines, and
charming country estates, the collection has an earthy
and organic palette of deep browns, khaki greens,
classic beiges, and custard cream shades that
mirror British and Irish landscapes. Informed by the
British people too, there are scarves for football fans,
equestrian-esque shoes for royals, and functional
bags to take on the tube or a trek across the North
York Moors. The collection’s versatility continues with
maxi kilts, deep V-neck knits, Savile Row-inspired
suits, and trousers with cuffs that reveal a check when
rolled up.
On the runway, the collection walked out to the sound
of Amy Winehouse hits such as Back to Black and
You Know I’m No Good. Lee said: “We wanted to
celebrate the UK with an iconic cast, including Naomi
Campbell, Lily Cole, Lily Donaldson, Agyness Deyn
and Karen Elson – with music by Amy Winehouse.”
Taking us back to the Noughties, the music and
models set the scene for the best of British, as
designs took us back to Burberry’s heritage. Wrapped
up in checked scarves, we sat back and enjoyed the
show, occasionally engaging in polite conversation
about the weather…
— PARK LIFE
In keeping with recent seasons, for the Winter 2024 show Burberry
set up camp in another London park. Staged in a huge tent
pitched in Victoria Park, East London, the show space resembled
a medieval jousting pavilion with flags emblazoned with Burberry’s
equestrian knight logo. Inside the dimly lit tent, the outdoor theme
continued with a soft grass matting runway and lines of benches
topped with wool pillows. Guests looked ready to light a fire, toast a marshmallow, and sing some songs under a starlit sky – and if it was a true British campout, they’d keep warm with a flask of tea and a swig of whisky.
— LORDS AND LADIES
Television royalty, Dames Olivia Colman and Joanna Lumley were
spotted on the front row alongside fellow actors, footballers, models, and a music set worthy of Glastonbury. Lil Simz, Central Cee, Kano, Dizzee Rascal, Lily Allen, Loyle Carner, Tiwa Savage, Skepta, Callum Turner, Cara Delevingne, Lila Moss, and Jourdan Dunn were among the cool crowd. Saltburn’s Barry Keoghan was also in attendance. Taking over another heritage House, the Irish actor was later announced as Burberry’s newest ambassador, joining Daniel Lee’s stellar team.
— THE CRAFT
“There’s a sense of craft in this collection,” said Lee. “We began
in the Burberry archive and the mills of [Scotland’s] Lochcarron
and [Ireland’s] Donegal. I wanted to take a traditional approach
to the fabrics and how each piece is made. Craftsmanship has
always been at the heart of design.” The traditional techniques from Scotland and Ireland inspired the construction, tactile fabrics, and handcrafted detailing in the collection. Craft was also seen to imitate nature in evening looks: a strapless floor-length dress with sequined fringing inspired by carpets of moss, and slip dresses embroidered with thistle lace and paisley silk crepe with ruffles and crystal embellishments.
— COAT WEATHER
Grounded in coats, the collection revealed parkas, duffles, field
jackets, and high-collared trenches fit for every blustery shower,
nippy breeze, or for when it’s absolutely chucking it down.
Providing protection from the elements and comfort too, coats were multilayered in cozy wool, moleskin, faux fur, and cashmere, with some styles detailed in shearling, handbraided tassel fringing, and zip trims. For both men and women, they were styled with scarves wrapped around the head and tucked into collars for extra warmth.
— CARRY ON CAMPING
Accessories came in the form of chic camping equipment: checked
scarves, open-top tent bags, and waterproof, toggle-fastened boots. Last season’s Knight, and Rocking Horse bags returned alongside new softly structured duffels and shoulder bags. Slouchy shapes, unzipped sides, and extra pockets provided adaptable bags that served as literal carryalls. Finished in earthy-toned washed leather, tanned cotton, and canvas, the bags continued to explore the great outdoors, with shearling and fleece linings adding comfort. Functional yet effortlessly elegant, the shoes of Winter 2024 seemed to trot off the set of The Crown and onto the runway. If one were to embark on a high-fashion hike, they’d do so in a pair of Scoot boots, featuring padded mesh collars. A walk across a muddy field might call for Range boots in quilted nylon, and on a more pleasant day, relaxed Field boots in leather. With a nod to the stables, equestrian-inspired straps decorated Saddle, Stirrup, and Stomp styles, and all rubber soles were puddle-proof.
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