ROCK HARD: VALÉRIE MESSIKA REFLECTS ON TWENTY YEARS OF MESSIKA

Written By: Ali Y. Khadra & Khansaa Houlbi

Inside Messika’s fearless fête where diamonds danced, instinct ruled, and Valérie’s vision forged a new frontier.

Milestones deserve celebration. Ours certainly does: fifty glossy issues later, we are still here, turning pages, and utterly delighted. While we revel with finger-licking layouts and cover-star extravaganza, another fête unfolded in Paris staged with untamable brilliance. Messika, of course, decided that a twentieth anniversary calls not for cake but for a takeover of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. As one casually does.

For the occasion, Valérie Messika unveiled Terres d’Instinct, a high jewelry collection conceived as both spectacle and statement. More than a commemoration of two decades spent reshaping diamonds into objects of desire, the collection is a hymn to instinct, freedom and the vivid spirit of Southern Africa. Jewelry in this universe refuses stillness, insisting on presence.

Infused with the chaleur and soul of the continent’s landscapes, Terres d’Instinct pushes craftsmanship to new heights. Pieces radiated unfiltered force and refinement echoing the fierceness yet precise sensuality at the heart of Messika’s work. To honour the creative spirit rising from Africa, the runway featured fashion collaborations with Feben and Vicnate, two designers reimagining the region’s design future.

Naturally, the front row also caught the light: our very own Sorbet cover star, Cindy Bruna, as well as others like Carla Bruni and Demi Lovato assembled like a cut of rare stone. At the heart of it all was the woman behind the vision, Valérie Messika. We caught up with her amid the celebrations to reflect on the milestone and delve into the world that shaped Terres d’Instinct.

 

 

Courtesy of Messika

ALI Y. KHADRA: Congratulations on 20 years of Messika! The celebration was incredible, how do you feel about reaching this incredible milestone?

VALÉRIE MESSIKA: It feels both surreal and deeply moving. Twenty years ago, I dreamed of bringing diamonds into everyday life, of making them feel modern and alive. To look around today and see a global community celebrating that vision with me is truly humbling! But this is more than a milestone, I see it as a new chapter. There are still so many stories left to tell.

AYK: Messika has always pushed the boundaries of modern jewelry. How do you decide when to preserve classic codes and when to disrupt them?

VM: I think the magic comes from letting diamonds breathe. They don’t have to be frozen in tradition; they can move, they can surprise, they can feel rock’n’roll one day and classic the next. My job is to liberate them from conventions while never forgetting their timeless soul. For me, innovation is about asking: how can these stones reflect the rhythm of our lives today, while still carrying the poetry that has made them eternal? That dialogue between heritage and disruption – that’s really the essence of Messika.

AYK: What has changed the most about your creative process since you founded the House?

VM: The beginnings of the Maison were rooted in my childhood memories of diamonds and a dream of what they could become. Today, I’m surrounded by an incredible team of designers, artisans, and craftspeople who each bring their own expertise and creativity. My process has become more collaborative over the years, but the heart remains the same: that spark – the moment when I imagine a diamond differently, and know it will change the way people feel about wearing it.

Courtesy of Messika

AYK: Terres d’Instinct seems to challenge traditional jewelry-making. What new techniques or materials did you explore for this collection?

VM: We experimented with sculptural volumes, new textures, and unexpected combinations of diamonds with colored gemstones – a first for Messika. Some pieces feel almost like fabric, draping and flowing in ways you don’t expect from jewelry. We played with textures, layering, and bold scales inspired by the raw energy of nature. It was about making the stones not just beautiful, but alive as if they carried their own instinct.

AYK: The collection draws energy from Southern Africa. What aspects of the region –whether culture, light, landscape – were the most influential to your creative process?

VM: Southern Africa has a raw, untouched beauty that is magnetic – especially Namibia, it has left a profound impact on me. The landscapes, the contrasts of light, the spirit of freedom you feel in the air… it’s a multi-sensory experience that leaves you in awe.. I wanted the collection to capture that same energy and translate it into pieces that feel powerful, instinctive, and infused with the spirit of the land.

AYK:How did your collaborations with Feben and Vicnate come about, and how did you merge all of your worlds?

VM: I’ve always been deeply inspired by the world of fashion and couture, and I love infusing that same spirit into my high jewelry designs – what I like to call “jewelry couture”. Collaborating with young, fearless designers like Feben and Vicnate felt completely natural. They embody boldness, creativity, and freedom – the same values that define Messika. Our worlds came together seamlessly on the runway, where fashion and jewelry amplified one another’s voice to deliver something truly powerful.

Courtesy of Messika

Courtesy of Messika

Courtesy of Messika

Courtesy of Messika

Courtesy of Messika

Courtesy of Messika

Courtesy of Messika

AYK:How do you maintain a sense of innovation after two decades, while keeping the brand’s DNA recognizable?

VM: Innovation has always come naturally by staying anchored to movement, freedom, and emotion – the core values that define Messika. I never want diamonds to feel distant or intimidating; I want them to feel approachable, modern, and wearable. As long as I stay true to that DNA, I can keep reinventing endlessly while ensuring our creations remain instantly recognizable.

AYK: Presenting the collection at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs feels deeply symbolic. Why did you choose this setting for such a milestone moment?

VM: Because it’s a place where history and creativity coexist in perfect harmony. Presenting Messika’s 20-year journey there felt deeply symbolic—almost like bringing the brand back to its artistic origins. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs, an iconic Parisian Museum located next to the Louvre, embodies the dialogue between heritage and innovation, which has always been at the heart of Messika. Choosing this venue was both an homage to the brand’s roots and a way to honor our past while boldly embracing the future, surrounded by the very artistry that continues to inspire me.

AYK: How did you approach the idea of “show” versus “exhibition – of jewelry as performance rather than static art?

VM: Jewelry isn’t meant to sit behind glass; it’s meant to breathe, to live, to shine in motion. For me, a “runway show” allows jewelry to express itself fully: the way it catches light, adapts to a gesture, amplifies a look. An exhibition is beautiful, but static. A show breathes life into the pieces, and that sense of movement is essential to understanding Messika.

AYK:The dialogue between jewelry and fashion was very present this year. How do you see that relationship evolving in future presentations?

VM: The boundaries between jewelry and fashion are dissolving. Today, jewelry is no longer just the “finishing touch”; it can be the starting point of a look, or even the main statement. I see the relationship between the two becoming more fluid, more collaborative, more daring. The perfect example is the bag handle that we have created out of a So Move Chain – I’m sure you noticed it on the runway!

Courtesy of Messika

Courtesy of Messika

AYK: How do you continue nurturing your own instinct – staying inspired, curious, and authentic after such success?

VM: By never allowing myself to get too comfortable. I seek inspiration everywhere; by listening to others, observing the world…traveling, and surrounding myself with creative energy. Success can make you cautious, but I try to keep the curiosity and boldness I had at the very beginning. My instinct is my compass, and I trust it completely. That’s what keeps the fire alive.

AYK: What can we expect to see from Messika in the near future?

VM: You can expect the same spirit of disruption but pushed even further. I want to keep surprising people, exploring new creative territories, and challenging expectations…. all I can say for now is stay tuned! 

AYK: Lastly, what is your favorite sorbet flavor?

VM: Raspberry sorbet with Chocolate coulis!

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