THE ETERNAL TICK: BVLGARI’S RECORD BREAKING PRESENCE AT WATCHES & WONDERS 2025
Written By: Ali Y. Khadra & Khansaa Houlbi
Bvlgari came, saw, and broke records at this year's Watches & Wonders
Bvlgari’s inaugural showing at Watches and Wonders 2025 left an impression carved in stone. With a booth that felt more like a Roman palazzo than a standard installation, the Maison brought the soul of the Eternal City to Geneva. Rationalist arches, marble tones, and metallic finishes set the stage for the Beyond Time – a curated horological journey that walked visitors through seven immersive showcases tracing the Maison’s evolution. Here, archival imagery met cutting-edge watchmaking, narrating a legacy not fixed in place, but constantly in motion.
That sense of forward momentum was both spatial and mechanical. Bvlgari’s long- anticipated debut made history, living up to the weight of its entrance extravaganza. It came, it saw, and it broke records. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon – now officially the world’s thinnest tourbillon – stole the spotlight. A feat of engineering so refined it verges on the impossible. This ultra-slim marvel continues a decade-long legacy of innovation, adding to the Maison’s impressive track record: 10 world records with the Octo Finissimo collection, and 13 revolutionary movements developed in just 11 years.
But the Roman spirit doesn’t only thrive in precision – it also lives in symbolism. That ethos of boundary-breaking extended beyond technical innovation and into the realm of mythology with the reveal of the Serpenti Aeterna. Here, Bvlgari demonstrates its alchemical command of both jewelry and horology, coiling its most iconic emblem into a sculptural timepiece that is equal parts watch, jewel, and legend. An interplay of diamonds and daring, the Serpenti Aeterna is a serpentine leap into the future, one that could only be imagined through Bvlgari’s lens.
Together, these two releases are powerful declarations of the Maison’s unwavering identity and creative force. Each one affirms a commitment to shaping the future of watchmaking through a language entirely its own. In continuing to challenge convention, the brand affirms its place at the forefront of contemporary horology, where Swiss technical innovation converges with the fearless elegance of Italian design.
To dig deeper into these milestone pieces, we sat down with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, product creation executive director at Bvlgari Horlogerie, for an insider’s look into the spirit, symbolism, and innovation that defined Bvlgari’s first chapter at Watches and Wonders.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani | Courtesy of Bvlgari
ALI Y. KHADRA: Congratulations on an incredible year at Watches and Wonders. Can you walk us through the concept and the layout of your showcase?
FABRIZIO BUONAMASSA STIGLIANI: Thank you! This was our first time participating in Watches and Wonders at Palexpo, so we wanted to allow visitors to be fully immersed in a Bvlgari world with all the Roman codes that make the brand.
The booth itself was an ode to our Roman heritage, with marble, columns, and the light which was a representation of the Luce di Roma.
The presented selection was a way to showcase Bvlgari savoir-faire and expertise in watchmaking. Of course, we launched two magnificent novelties, Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and Serpenti Aeterna, but we also showcased what the Maison does best – innovative, artistic design watches.
AYK: How impactful or important is the presentation of these novelties at this year’s show?
FBS: The impact is huge. Watches and Wonders is the largest watch fair in the world. Being present and showing our novelties alongside the top players in the industry is a strong message and a true milestone.
AYK: The Serpenti is such an icon. Can you walk us through your approach in revisiting this iconic motif for the Serpenti Aeterna?
FBS: For Serpenti Aeterna we went to the very core of the history of Serpenti. We removed all decorative motifs – such as the scales, the eyes, the rings – to create a symbol that we want to project into the future of the brand. The idea was to let Serpenti evolve and grow.
AYK: Bvlgari has created Serpenti timepieces in different forms since 1948. Did this history inform the process for Aeterna or was this a completely new approach?
FBS: Serpenti is an essential part of Bvlgari; we could never have created Aeterna had we not had Serpenti to pave the way. So yes, the history of Serpenti definitely influenced the process for Aeterna.
AYK: You have stated that you wanted to capture Serpenti’s DNA; to distill it to its essence, and project it into the future. Can you tell us more about how the Aeterna faces that future?
FBS: Serpenti Aeterna is projected into the future because it’s a totally new vision of the serpent. This futuristic approach of Serpenti can only be reached thanks to the past, and the history of Serpenti. Thanks to all the developments we’ve seen through the years we were able to imagine Serpenti Aeterna. We consider this an evolution, not a change.
AYK: The timepiece is a wonder filled with intricate details. Can you tell us more about the composition of the Serpenti Aeterna ?
FBS: Even though Serpenti Aeterna is a bangle and not a flexible tubogas bracelet, we keep the idea of a snake that wraps around the wrist, but in a much sleeker, contemporary line. After 20 years with the Maison, I can confidently say that it’s more important to create the optic of the brand DNA rather than for pure aesthetics.
Serpenti Aeterna | Courtesy of Bvlgari
Serpenti Aeterna | Courtesy of Bvlgari
AYK: The precision of the composition of the Serpenti Aeterna is incredible. Can you tell us more about the craftsmanship process, how long did its creation take from design, and how many hours are involved in each piece?
FBS: Thank you, we are very happy with the outcome. We started working on Serpenti Aeterna in 2022. The piece underwent many developments, such as going from a two twirl to a single twirl. It took us about two-and-a-half years from start to finish.
AYK: Is this new sculptural avant-garde appearance a form you want to uphold, perhaps revisiting in different colored gems and material? Or will the Serpenti Aeterna have different forms in the future?
FBS: We just launched Serpenti Aeterna, we definitely want to exploit it more.
AYK: What future chapters do you envision for the Serpenti as a symbol within Bvlgari’s watchmaking narrative?
FBS: Serpenti is a part of Bvlgari’s history and heritage. The reptile is deeply rooted in our brand DNA; and that is not ready to change any time soon.
AYK: The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is the thinnest tourbillon ever. What was the design philosophy behind this incredible feat?
FBS: The design philosophy was to push the limits, to push the boundaries. Every time we find a new challenge to reach and surpass. This time it was not enough to create the thinnest tourbillon, so we decided to skeletonize it. Finissimo is a challenge in itself, so adding features means we have to start the development process from scratch. Our challenge begins with the creation of components – they are so thin that we need a very specific know-how and expertise. The final aesthetic is a consequence of the technical constraints.
AYK: What are the challenges in achieving a record-breaking thinness while maintaining intricate complications and precision?
FBS: The answer is actually in the question. The challenge in achieving extreme thinness is to be able to maintain utmost precision. Yes, we go beyond boundaries and push our limits, but our watch has to be perfectly precise, and that is the challenge.
AYK: Can you tell us about your approach to incorporating materials such as titanium and carbon in luxury horology?
FBS: It’s a matter of design, aesthetics and brand DNA. As previously mentioned, we love to push boundaries and to be different. We were the first to use aluminum and rubber on a watch back in the day; we also innovated with materials such as ceramic. We love to play with constraints and to meet people where they don’t expect us. Like our Octo Finissimo in full sandblasted gold, for example.
AYK: Do you think the Octo Finissimo has the capacity to go thinner, but maintain its design and its mechanism?
FBS: I don’t know. There is a huge gap between the first Ultra and the last one, so there is always the opportunity to grow and go further. But something to keep in mind is that just like in Formula 1, each time you have to change a fraction of a millimeter it is very expensive. So, it’s all about finding the right balance.
AYK: What else can we expect from Bvlgari watchmaking in the near-future? Are we going to have new iterations of both models, or are we going to meet new creations?
FBS: It all depends on strategy, and that is not really my part. Personally, I would prefer to have different iterations of the same family. I don’t think we need new families at this stage, there is still so much to be done in the ones we have at the moment. I believe we will continue building on our iconic pillars for the next 10 years.
AYK: Lastly, what is your favorite flavor of sorbet?
FBS: I always have trouble defining favorites (in general, not only for ice-cream flavors!). It really depends on my mood. Sometimes I can be into ice-cream, sometimes I am more of a sorbet lover. I never order chocolate, strawberry or lemon ice-cream, but I do love green tea ice-cream and pistachio – but it has to be the perfect color. If the color does not match the flavor, I don’t order it.
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