Nicolas Ghesquière invites us once again to take off into the future, as Louis Vuitton host their Resort 2020 collection in the space-age-inspired, TWA Hotel.
Nicolas Ghesquière often uses his venues as reference points when it comes to his mid-season shows. For Resort 2020, the creative director looked to the nostalgia of air travel to reinvent the future, as the show took place at the newly-opened TWA Hotel in New York. Stewardess dresses and accessories reminiscent of flight bags revived the glamorous heyday of Trans World Airlines (before it was acquired and became defunct by American Airlines in 2001), while Elizabethan puff sleeves, 1980s bubble skirts and 1990s board shorts proved that the designer is open-minded when it comes to being inspired by past decades.
As far as iconic show locations go, Louis Vuitton landed safely by taking guests on a first-class trip to the much-hyped new TWA Hotel, located in the famous former TWA Flight Centre in New York City. Looming over the outskirts of JFK Airport, the famous alien-like piece of mid-century architecture was constructed in 1962 by Eero Saatinen but went abandoned after the airline went bust in 2001. It was also Ghesquière’s first impression of New York when he first visited in 1991. “I landed here one trip,” he explained backstage. “I always remember the place, here, this terminal. Arriving to this fantastic city…and at the same time, at this masterpiece of architecture.” In contrast to the location’s concrete and chrome interiors, the retro space was decorated with luscious, green plants as the models walked across a bridge high above the seating, and then descending down a staircase and wove between the VIP guests.
THE GUEST LIST
Those flying on the 2,000-strong guest list included Louis Vuitton faces Sophie Turner and new husband, Joe Jonas (who were passing through on the way to their honeymoon), Emma Stone, Alicia Vikander, Julianne Moore, Jennifer Connelly and Willow Smith as well as a host of New York’s VIP’s including Tracy Morgan, Ruth Negga, popstar Robyn and Cate Blanchett.
Ghesquière continued his love affair with the Eighties and futurism for Resort 2020 in a tough Superhero-esqe collection of intricate separates. The cape was hero here, as the creative director designed structured versions over pleated pants and soft caplets attached to leather jackets. Art Deco-inspired brocades, embroideries and prints also revived Ghesquière’s interest in Renaissance but with a touch of the Eighties in the form of structured shoulders and micro miniskirts. There was also the NYC-skyline embroidered on biker jackets. “As a French guy, I have no problem to go with the cliché of New York,” Ghesquière easily admitted.
Mini Chrysler Building -shaped bags were cute, but what caught everyone’s eye was Ghesquière’s video-screen handbag. The futuristic accessory, called the ‘Canvas of the Future’ were a prototype for the runway, fitted with flexible screens made from AMOLED technology, the LED lights found in some smartphones. The aim, according to the brand, is to eventually blur the lines between your phone and your bag.
THE SOUND TRACK
In line with Ghesquière’s fascination with futurism, models marched around the crowd to the beat of music from Japanese video game composer, Nobuo Uematsu. The track was from the soundtrack to video game, Final Fantasy VIII, before synthesized and “hyperkinetic” Scottish producer, SOPHIE provided the finale walk accompaniment.
After the show, the VIP crowd made their way to Queens, Long Island where the MoMA PS1 (one of the largest art institutions in the US dedicated solely to contemporary art) hosted the after party. Held outside in the museum’s courtyard, guests wandered through the galleries where current exhibitions from artists included Zheng Guogu and Edgar Heap of Birds were showing, with champagne in hand and catering from New York favorites, including Roberta’s pizza, the Meatball Shop, Shake Shack and Milk Bar.
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